A Day Exploring the Alzette Valley in Luxembourg

 I woke up today with a feeling of renewed promise. Its been barely two weeks since we moved out of our home in Northern Virginia and started the complicated journey to what will be our residence for the next few years. Yet, we've been told our home could be move-in ready as soon as later this week. I'm looking forward to the stage where we can completely empty our suitcases and stow them in the basement. I'm looking forward to buying houseplants. I'm looking forward to setting up a cozy place we can call home. And it turns out that may not take very long.

It was also very rejuvenating to enjoy a weekend around town with my boys. I've probably mentioned how convenient the public transit system is here, but it has made getting around our new digs so easy. Saturday was another day of gorgeous 70 degree weather, so we hopped on the Bus 3 and rode it into the city. Getting off at the Fondation Pescatore stop, we had only a minute walk to the Panoramic Elevator of the Pfaffenthal (and yes, I did have to look up the proper spelling.) This smooth glass elevator travels up and down 71 meters between the city and the Alzette Valley, which features historic churches, classic Luxembourg architecture, and plenty of places to stroll and explore. 

. 

The elevator is free to ride, and despite it being mid-day on a Saturday, it was not crowded at all. You can even stand on a section of the elevator that has a glass floor and look down. But why would you, when instead you can enjoy the incredible views around you? This is one thing I should mention that I truly appreciate about Luxembourg so far: its a VERY accessible city for teens and kids as it is very unlikely you will encounter long waits for sites, buses, or even tables at the restaurant. Short walks and short waits ensures much less teen grumbles, speaking from experience.

When we reached the bottom of the elevator, the streets and neighborhoods in the valley

were pleasant and fun to explore. We took our time and eventually followed our appetites to the Bar Brauerei, a Bavarian and Luxembourgish themed brewery and restaurant located in what appeared to be a spirited nightclub/pub location. Sitting outside under giant sunshades, we enjoyed their own pilsner (really refreshing!) and had a hearty lunch. The Bar Brauerei offers traditional Bavarian dishes and also local Luxembourg dishes, and the staff were delightful so I definitely recommend this for families visiting the valley. The boys went with good old beef burgers (18-20eur) but Phil and I tried the local dishes instead. 

After the late lunch we turned up Clausen, and walked to the entrance of the Bock Casemates. At that hour of the afternoon there was a small line, and after waiting five minutes we were informed that the tours were all sold out for the day. Fortunately, as we waited, Phil went online and purchased four tickets for us for the last entrance of the day! Lucky us, but there was some grumbling around us as some families with small children were visibly annoyed. As the tunnels and caverns are small, and the staircases are tiny in some places, they

limit the amount of guests every 45 minute period. It does make exploring the tunnels more pleasant to have fewer people in there with you. And certainly safer. I recommend buying your tickets over breakfast that day, or perhaps while sitting down at lunch so you aren't disappointed! 

Since we had a few hours until our admission time, we walked just a few steps away to enter and admire the beautiful art and structure of the Eglise Saint-Michel and then requested seats at the unconventional Cafe Froid, located up the Rue de la Boucherie. Close to the National Museum of History and Art, the cafe is an eclectic collection of worn library chairs, benches, throw blankets and stools. Our order of iced tea, bier, espresso and my new favorite aperol spritz, were brought out on an antique tin tray and squeezed onto

our table already occupied by a plant potted in a teapot and several antique reference volumes.

Finally getting into the Bock Casemates, the boys immediately went into explorer mode,

and we could barely keep up. The tunnels were fascinating, and thanks to the cool breezes that day, it was more than enjoyable to roam through the tunnels, check out every vault, and marvel over the few cannons they've strategically placed to remind you that this was, in fact, at one time a formidable defensive structure! 

An UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Bock Casemates are in fact just a part of what once was over 23km of underground passages and galleries that have served many many purposes since the beginning of their construction. At the very least, the views on both sides of the Bock are pretty incredible. I would wear comfortable walking shoes, aand prepare to duck at times if you're any taller than me! The admission is not free, but only 8eur for adults and 4eur for kids 4-12.

The whole day turned out to be more relaxing than I expected, and from the whole experience I have learned a few handy things:

1. Don't rush from Point A to Point B. The city is very walkable, and you will have plenty of time to stop and look around. Take a detour down an interesting roadway. Poke your head in a chapel and appreciate the architecture. And for gods sake, stop by a cafe and learn to love slowing down.

2. Take advantage of good weather any chance you can! The region can get stuck in some rainy spells, and I've heard last summer they experienced extremely hot temperatures. 

Tickets for the Casemates are available at luxembourg-city.com.